If
you are looking for a colorful and musical place,
then you should try Salvador. A friendly and welcoming city, Salvador
has almost 3 million inhabitants. They
form a warm and creative community and celebrate their
deep-rooted traditions with an incredible variety of
cultural manifestations.
Salvador shelters a large Afro-Brazilian community. It is famous for "candomblé", a religion inherited from
the slaves, whose rites are celebrated in "terreiros", small temples
were African deities and Catholic saints are worshiped side by side. Despite its
strong African heritage, the prevailing religion in Salvador is still Roman Catholicism.
According to legend, there are 365 Catholic churches in Salvador, one for every
day of the year.
European, African and American heritages have been intricately
woven together in Salvador. There, three cultures interacted and were transformed by
the shared climate,
geography and
social history. As a result,
something entirely new has emerged. Salvador is culturally vital and
defiantly different: a melting pot instead
of a mosaic; a soup instead of a salad.
Salvador is also famous for its street carnival celebrations, when more than 2 million people dance
on the streets for seven days in a row.
Tourists from all around the world follow the “trio elétrico”,
huge trucks packed with amplifiers that spread music and happiness
all over town.
The state of Bahia has produced some of the best Brazilian musicians
ever, such as Dorival Caymmi, Caetano Veloso, Maria Bethania,
Gilberto Gil, Gal Costa, Daniela Mercuri and Ivete Sangalo - not to mention
João Gilberto, the "Pope" of bossa nova.
The
region's natural beauty is truly spectacular: there are 50 kilometers (31 miles)
of beaches right there in the city and several ecological parks.
Breathless with its beauty, visitors will find that typical Salvador
food
is superb. The scent of dendê palm oil fills the streets of
Pelourinho, as the well preserved historic center of Salvador
is known. There you can find the traditional "baianas",
Bahian women dressed in traditional white, selling acarajé and
abará, symbols of Bahia's unique cuisine.
Salvador was the first Brazilian capital and still bears some
of the colonial splendor that originated the beautiful architectural style
seen in the whole city, but especially present in the historic center.
There you can find cafes, restaurants and shops selling everything from
crafts to precious stones. The music is everywhere.
Agile practioners of "capoeira"
- a kind of ritual combat first devised by African slaves - perform their gracious
movements on the streets, always accompanied by the sound of a "berimbau" -
a single-wire, bowlike instrument.
A brief history of Salvador
Salvador was founded by the Portuguese
in 1549 as an important stop for ships south of the equator. The city
is located on a large bay, after which the state of Bahia ("bay",
in Portuguese) was named.
Salvador hosted
the main port in the southern hemisphere until the 18th century. Besides
being the first Brazilian capital, Salvador was one
of the most
important cities in the southern hemisphere during the 17th and 18th
century.
It was soon discovered that its climate and soil were
favorable to sugar cane growing, which would later become fundamental
to the regional economy. With trade and agriculture, great
wealth was accummulated in Salvador during the 18th century, when
monuments, temples, and public buildings were built.
Religions in Bahia
With hundreds of churches bearing witness to the force of Catholicism throughout the centuries,
Bahia still preserves many African rituals and customs.
African traditions are part of the city's daily life.
For instance, many people
wear white on Fridays, not only those who belong to the Candomblé
religion. This tradition, in honor of the deity
Oxalá, is one of many that has been incorporated into the daily life
of the city regardless of race, religion or social class.
In Candomblé, one worships
the orixás, spirits of nature. When slavery existed in
Brazil, the practice of African religions was
forbidden. Africans and Afro-Brazilians devised a way to hide and protect
their beliefs by uniting the cult of the orixás with devotion to
Catholic saints.
This is why many orixás
are revered still today under the form of Catholic saints. For instance,
Iansan, the fearless Goddess of storms, is identified with
Saint Barbara; Ogun with Saint
George, and Oxalá, the father of all orixás, is identified
with Christ himself. See below some of the most important Orixas in
their African original form.
When the drums sound at the terreiros, the initiates, literally the children
of the saints, incorporate the holy spirits as they dance dressed
in the clothes and colors characteristic of each orixá.
According to Candomblé, each person on earth is a child of a specific orixá.
For instance, a brave and impulsive man could be a son of Ogun, while
an attractive and charming woman would probably be Oxum's daughter.
In order to please one's orixá, a Candomblé adept always wear the
deity colors in long beads collars.